A couple of lefts here during a solid six to eight-foot swell will be burnished on your brain for decades. Paddling with the pack towards an incoming set and realizing that you are best-positioned to spin and take off is one of the most amazing feelings you will ever have as a surfer. The drop looks heavy and the wall looks long, but cast your doubts aside and go. At this size, the wave gives you an extra moment or two before it pitches, by which time you will be at the bottom, lining up one of
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